• 15.1 megapixel CMOS sensor
• DIGIC 4 image processor
• 6.3 frames per second
• ISO 100-12800
• 3″ 920,000 dot/VGA resolution rear display
• 9 cross-type AF sensors

Canon EOS 50D

Not only that, it has added two sRAW modes for more compact RAW files, and lets you shoot RAW in the preset/basic modes. At the sRAW1 setting, resolution is 7.1 megapixels with a file size that is approximately 25 percent smaller than a standard 15.1 megapixel RAW image. With the sRAW2 setting, resolution is 3.8 megapixels at less than half the file size of a standard RAW image, retaining all of the flexibility and creative possibilities associated with full-size, conventional RAW images. The EOS 50D is the first Canon Digital SLR that allows the use of RAW and sRAW settings in Basic Zone as well as Creative Zone shooting modes, even further improving the camera’s flexibility.

Doesn’t seem too bad of a deal, the Canon EOS 50D Digital SLR camera is scheduled for October delivery and will be sold in a body-only configuration at an estimated selling price of $1,399.00USD. It will additionally be offered in a kit version with Canon’s EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM zoom lens at an estimated selling price of $1,599.00USD.

Also available in October is a new EF-S 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6 IS zoom lens, expected to retail for around $699.00USD. Sounds like a good all around general purpose lens!

My only question is… where the heck is the replacement for the 5D???

Read the official press release from Canon here.

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There’s some confusion as to what the RAW photo format actually is, and, like any good photographic fact, it can incite forum flame wars as quickly as the mention of the words Leica and Bokeh in the same sentence. Although it comes in various flavors — seemingly one for every different camera model — RAW is essentially the raw data from the camera’s sensor, hence the name.

I love RAW, when I first got my XTi, I switched it over to RAW+JPEG shooting and I really like being able to have maximum flexibility with my files once I get them onto computer. Not only can I change things like the White Balance, I can shoot in B&W and revert to color if I so desire. Not to mention, I find the RAW file crisper than the JPG file the camera spits out as well.

Make sure you read Why You Should Be Shooting RAW over on the Wired.com Gadget Lab.

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“Share your knowledge. It’s a way to achieve immortality.”

Quote complements of the Dalai Lama, so here you go – sharing my knowledge!

Was going through some photos and noticed a few spots in them, all in the same location. So I tried some test shots using this Monitor Test Shot and adjusting the levels in Photoshop with different lenses and had the same result – sensor dust.

Next I did some searches and viewed some contacts streams who had cleaned their sensors before and came to one conclusion. Copper Hill Images. I read through the tutorial and checked out a few other links, and came to the same conclusion that some of my other contacts had come to as well – there is nothing wrong with cleaning your own sensor as long as you are careful – just like anything else. Working with computers for the past 10 years or so, I’m comfortable with electronics so maybe that’s a plus.

On page 1 of the tutorial, I was pleased to read this:

There is a bit of hysteria about how dangerous canned air is but it actually isn’t if you follow these guidelines:

• The only time to use canned air is when a bulb blower cannot dislodge a big particle.
• Don’t shake the can beforehand; there’s nothing to “mix.
• When spraying with it, keep it perfectly upright and move the object you’re blowing NOT the can.
• Always let a little air out before spraying an optic. Propellant has a tendency to build up towards the valve and will come right out if the can has been sitting for a while
• Don’t let the jet-straw get any closer to the sensor than 1″ or 1½” or just inside the lens mount.
• Use very short bursts, no more than a one second shot; “freezing” will only occur when you use a prolonged stream of air.

Using these guidelines, we have never had any problems with canned air. If by some chance the canned air cannot remove the dastardly stuck-on specks, try ignoring them for a day or two, in many cases, they will pop off on their own. If you can determine that the speck is a dust mote and NOT a big particle of debris or grit which canned air should be able to remove, then it should be safe to proceed with a wet cleaning. If it definitely is an unmovable piece of grit or you’re not sure what to do, then, by all means, send it to the manufacturer for cleaning.

Following those directions to the letter, I proceeded with an initial cleaning and you can see the results above after the first cleaning. I had removed three of the offending particles with success! Another quick blast directed at the spot of the last remaining large particle, and another test shot confirmed it was gone as well. The sensor still shows some dust spots but it’s nothing of consequence in my opinion, it was more the large three that I was after…

So, be careful, use a clean environment and follow those tips and you shouldn’t have a problem with cleaning your sensor. The Copper Hill Images tutorial is very detailed, and takes you through a four step process, fortunately I’m satisfied my sensor is clean enough without having to go so far as using sensor wipes and fluid.

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Yes it works! I have Walgreen’s process my film into negatives (no prints) for $2.29 and then I can scan the abnormal width and length of the entire filmed print with my new Epson Perfection V500 photo and negative scanner.

I think I’m going to have to try this out!

Running 35mm through a 50’s Kodak Brownie Hawkeye
Originally uploaded by lslphoto

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My buddy Sime used the above image on a DPS poll pondering insurance… in my case, this was covered under my house insurance – I have an accidental damage rider on my policy – but with a $250 deductible, it wouldn’t have been worth it in this case…

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Polaroid is saying goodbye to its iconic, white-bordered instant pictures. It expects to stop selling the film next year.

Generations of photographers have watched Polaroid pictures develop almost magically before their eyes, but digital photography has made the instant photos seem less instant.

We want to see your favorite Polaroid pictures, whether they’re from an old family album or a recent art project.

Send us your photos and tell us if you’ll miss your Polaroid cameras.

Be sure to check it out and add any Polaroid memories you may have!

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 The rumors are true. Canon’s took power features from the high-end EOS models and creature comforts from the PowerShot line, and merged them into the 12.2-megapixel EOS Rebel XSi DSLR, with Live View LCD view-finding (previously only seen on EOS-1D Mark III and 40D), a 3″ LCD screen with 230,000 pixels, and the Digic III processor found in nearly every new Canon model. There will be two kits, body only for $800 and one with a starter 18-55mm lens for $900. Jump for full details and more pics.

The rest of the specs are over at Gizmodo.

Here’s a list of some of the changes over at DP Review.

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